Early start-off before 7 to miss the traffic.I was leaving Newcastle and heading for Seahouses then inland. More or less the reverse of the Tour Of Britain stage I had seen the day before- though they went even further to Berwick in much less time.The first hill was the same one where the tour of Britain had finished.Lowest gear.
The sky was gray but no rain.The wind had completely gone and there was a lovely early morning quiet as headed through the suburbs of Newcastle.I made good progress and was level with Morpeth before 9 oclock.My legs felt good for the rest and the countryside was rolling but not to bad.The roads beyond Morpeth were very quiet as most Northumberland back roads seemed to be .Northumberland is very empty and the landscape feels big.The wind had vanished completely and I purred along with just the high pitched singing of the air in the spokes.
I stopped for breakfast in Alnmouth and was pleased with my progress.After another hour it started to drizzle .It was the kind of light drizzle that evaporates from your cycle shirt as you blast out heat and it actually keeps you nice and cool.The drizzle turned to rain as I reached Seahouses down more quiet back lanes.Amazingly it was not yet 11 oclock.
Seahouses was quiet ,I got a takeaway cup of tea and went straight onto the 11 oclock boat trip.The rain increased and having stopped cycling I started to get cold .I pulled on my water proof and huddled with my cup of tea until I warmed up.
There were only 6 people on the boat , the sea was very calm and there was no wind.We cruised around the Farne Islands in a sort of dead calm.There were no puffins- wrong time of year- but there were lots of other seabirds and several colonies of seals.Seals are strange creatures so ungainly , clumsy and fat on land ,but the minute they are in the water they turn into graceful torpedoes shooting around effortlessly.
After an hour or so the sun came out and it turned into a glorious day.We headed back to the harbour and when we got there it was packed with boats and people.I hadn’t realised Seahouses was such a popular destination for day trips.It is quite a long way from anywhere.Presumably people zoom up or down the A1, not the empty back lanes I had cycled on. The single street was packed with people and car parks were overflowing with cars and buses.It was a complete contrast to the quiet drizzly village we had left 2 hours before.
There are four fish and chip restaurants all serving tea,fish chips,mushy peas and bread and butter.There are also about 10 cafes serving tea and cakes.All this in a tinyvillage miles from anywhere.I discovered a huge souvenir shop and bought a wooden puffin fridge magnet that I was very pleased with.Rather than have fish and chips with the hoards I headed down a back street in search of the last remaining smoke house, where they still smoke local fish.It wasn’t easy to find but worth it.As well as all the fresh seafood you could want they also sell the most amazing kipper rolls.I bought 2 then sat by the harbour watching the boats come and go and feasted on kippers.
Next I cycled down the coast to Bamburgh. The beach on this section of coast is idyllic.Miles of golden sand backed by huge sand dunes.
Bamburgh Castle was packed but the views of the Farne Islands to the south and Holy Island to the north were worth the crowds.I was starting to wilt and so didnt stay long.
As soon as I left the main road the traffic and crowds vanished as if they had never been.I managed to navigate my way with the big map.There must be a sort of well recognised day trip that involves a visit to Holy Island,Bamburgh Castle and then fish and chips in Seahouses and a Farne Island boat trip.
I headed west across attractive farm land and rolling hills.The countryside north of Newcastle is not as lush as it is in Yorkshire or Lincolnshire but still recognisably “English”.I arrived at my accommodation for the night- an airnb in a barn.The advert had promised “camping in a stone tent” .It was lovely with a great view and my own personal fire place.I had food at a local pub and settled down in front of the fire.Outside the wind wailed and buckets of rain came down.I was well happy with the distance I had covered and places I had been and was looking forward to arriving in Peebles to stay with a friend.
Place nameof the day-Hipsburn.
Food of the day- Kipper roll.
Sight of the day-Bamburgh Castle and dunes.
Wandering North 